Neck glued in.

I glued in the neck. I made a groove along the bottom of the neck tenon as well as the end of the neck tenon. That will allow glue to escape when applying the clamps. The groove might've been a bit large, but the squeeze-out just flowed out of that groove. Maybe it relieved some pressure. That little amount of surface won't make or break the neck joint. I was worried about the glue escaping very slowly, if at all. The last thing you want to do is to trap air and glue in pockets. No amount of pressure will get the glue out once the gluing starts. I took this advice from readings by James D'Aquisto in New York. He makes arch-tops. I applied a clamp to the neck as a base for the long clamp. I wanted the neck to be forced just slightly, into the body. There was minute play in the tenon. This way I'll keep the neck from wandering away from the body and keeping the joint tight. I made a caul that goes on the fingerboard for the clamp. I grooved it for the frets to fit into. This keeps the force of the clamps from pushing the frets deeper in the fingerboard. There was plenty of space between the fret grooves, but the clamp still forced the caul against one of the frets. I'll keep an eye on that fret for any lifting or distortion. I have that clamp very tight and it still moved. If the heel was more pronounced, I could've used that to clamp against. I used wax paper between the cauls and the clamps. This keeps the wood cauls from sticking to work.